Walking into Ovn for the first time, the enticing fragrance of roasting tomatoes, melting mozzarella, seasoned meats, pesto, and baking dough radiated from the rustic oven that adorns the corner of the restaurant, instantly captured my senses.
Matt Brawner, owner of Bellingham’s newest pizza place, doesn’t fool around when it comes to pizza. A practiced professional, he has mastered the craft of creating thin crust, wood-fire baked pies. With a background at Pepper Sisters, Rudy’s Pizza, and managing a wood-fire pizza parlor in Coeur D’Alene, Idaho, it is not surprising that Brawner had to turn down offers to manage other restaurants. His sights were set on owning his own place though, and in August of 2015, Ovn was born in Fairhaven, near the south Boulevard trailhead.
For a town with no shortage of pizza aficionados, Brawner, with sous chef Matt Walker, has created a pizza different from any other pie in the city.
The keys to Ovn’s success are the back-to-Neapolitan*-basics technique—thin crust with seasoned sauce and toppings, paired with intriguing ingredients like lemon zest, fennel sausage, and honey—just a few of the additions that you won’t find on most pizza menus.
The crust maintains a bit of crunch with just enough chewiness; it comes out fresh from the Italian-born wood-fire oven after just two minutes at 800 degrees Fahrenheit, consistent with true Neapolitan tradition. Each morning, the cooks re-build the oven fire that is maintained at precise temperature all day, and includes Applewood to give the crust a hint of its unique flavor.
The most popular pizzas vary between the classics with a twist, like the Danzig—crushed tomatoes, garlic, mozzarella, Calabrian chilies, pickled red onions, fennel sausage and Parmigiano—and the deliciously unconventional pies such as the Yukon (pictured left) with caramelized onions, Yukon Gold potatoes, crispy bacon, and topped with sour cream and chives.
On a more recent visit to Ovn with the DDB team, the three of us started off with a spinach salad with dried cherries, chevre, and candied pecans, topped with sweet raspberry vinaigrette. The salad was a delightful combination of unexpected flavors. Finishing it quickly, our anticipation rose for the main course.
I ordered the Mission—fig preserves and gorgonzola with a balsamic reduction; my colleague, Nina Holbrooks, sampled the Wallis with cherry tomatoes, chicken and basil-pistachio pesto, and Marc, our boss, ordered the meaty Cerberus with pepperoni, salami, and fennel sausage. The consensus over full stomachs and to-go boxes was that we would all be back.
It should be noted that all of Ovn’s pizza are “individually sized” meaning that they are designed for one person to eat, but are generously portioned. We all took some home, and Marc texted me a day later saying that he was enjoying a second meal from his pizza and it was “still great”. A good way to approach the Ovn’s menu if you are with a number of people is to order with the intent of sharing, especially if visiting the first time.
In traditional Bellingham form, Ovn likes to keep the beer list as local as possible, with an occasional addition of a beer from outside our immediate area. They make it a point to carry two IPAs at all times (whew) and always feature a Kulshan and a Wander brew.
The wine list is carefully selected to complement the pizzas without overpowering. With a balanced mix of classic Italian reds and other specifically chosen reds and whites, you can find the perfect match for your meal.
If you’re interested in cocktails, Ovn specializes in gin concoctions. With twelve varieties to choose from, Karly, the server I spoke with, explained that the staff is particularly passionate about their gin beverages.
One of their wood-fire baked chocolate chip cookies may be worth the visit in itself. Unique for a pizza parlor, this dessert is baked to order and comes hot out of the oven crispy on the edges and gooey in the middle. It’s big enough to split, and you can add ice cream if need be as well (pictured below).
Ovn’s prime location makes it easy for locals to walk over for a quick lunch from anywhere in Fairhaven. Mondays through Thursdays, you can find customers enjoying the hit two-part happy hour with deals that include $4 off pizzas, $2 off appetizers and $2 off all alcoholic beverages.
After my recent visit, it seems like Ovn is hitting their groove. With perfected thin crust technique and mouth-watering flavors, these pies most definitely stand out in our pizza-loving town. Next time I’m looking to satisfy my pizza craving, this is where I’ll be.
Hours:
Monday-Thursday: 11:30am-9:00pm
Friday-Saturday: 11:30am-10:00pm
Sunday: 12:00pm-8:00pm
Happy Hour:
Monday: all day
Tuesday-Thursday: 2-5pm and 8-9pm
*Neapolitan – of or relating to Naples, Italy
